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| NEGLECT, OBEDIENCE TRAINING,
SHEEPDOGGING, PRAISE AND MORE |
Dear
Trainers,
Let me
begin with two underlying axioms: 1. With rare exceptions, well
trained dogs are happier and better off than poorly or untrained dogs.
2. To a dog, pain is kinder than terror or chaos. Neglect is
often mistaken for outright abuse and indeed, can be more harmful than
abuse. Neglect can range from my wife's greeting arriving friends
while ignoring our dogs who are taking advantage of the hub-hub to settle
their bitchy scores, to an elderly neighbor's forgetting her dog was locked
in the root cellar.
Troubled dogs - the
problem dogs you trainers see - are more likely to suffer from neglect than
outright abuse.
- If
they aren't trained at all that's neglect.
- If
they're allowed to persist in wrong doing, that's neglect.
- If
they're unsocialized, that's neglect.
- Neglect is a failure of attention: for a time - long or short
-
- the dog stops
existing for the human.
Abuse can be as mild as ineffectual training or my neighbor's boot when his
dog tries to bolt ahead through the door. Abuse can be the angry man who
beats a confused dog until it yelps or sets the shock collar to MAX and
stays on the button.
There
may be more hope for the abusive human than the neglectful one. At least
the abusive human SEES the dog - however imperfectly. Abuse is a failure of
perception. The dog the abusive human sees is not the dog in front of
him. Cruelty can be as mild as the fellow who accustoms a dog to
taking treats from his hand to feed it a cigarette at a party. Some joke.
Cruelty
collapses the
world into the human ego. The dog exists only as the cruel
man imagines
him.Cruelty has no top limit except what the dog can survive.
Dogs and humans learn first from corrections. One has to be part
educated by corrections before rewards are useful. (It's easier/quicker to
teach a cow to avoid an electric fence (one experience/1/100th of a second)
than to teach it to come in for grain). Some phenomenologists claim the
infant first learns who he/she is by learning what he/she is not: the
infant bumps into a world that isn't the infant.
Proper corrections are the cornerstone of traditional dog training
and today the most sophisticated forms of dog training - training that
literally expands the dog's brain - depends on them.
But the
effectiveness of correction training depends absolutely on the trainer: his
timing, experience and gifts. If the correction trainer can do great good,
an ignorant, inept or careless traditional trainer can do more harm than if
he used less powerful tools.
No
genius sees anything unusual in his accomplishments but we non-geniuses can
spot the difference. The commonest mistake traditional trainers make is to
underrate their own experience. Many times they speak of a "method" when
the "method" is that impressive trainer with perfect timing and the ability
to read any dog instanter.
Thats
why new trainers apprentice - because it is easier to learn the dance than
the steps.
Donald
McCaig Yucatec Farm Williamsville, Virginia 24487 USA
================================
Dear Trainers,
M. wrote: " I know there
are times when I just plain won't give up until the dog gets it right and
there are times when if the dog doesn't get it after the second try, I
quickly change what I am doing. More often than not the change is brought
about by my feeling that the dog doesn't have a solid enough foundation
for what I now want them to do. So I stop, back-track to a point where I
can achieve a success and begin to rebuild."
Different skills are
inherently more or less difficult and different dogs have different
strengths, weaknesses and hopes.
At last
weeks trial, I saw a young dog fail to control his tough sheep because he
was inexperienced; another failed because he'd been badly rolled the week
before. The remedies are different. Most sheepdog training - whether by a
dog's owner or a professional - is board and train. Consequently, I have
great power to adjust a dog's circumstances, diet, pack interactions,
freedom. adventure, peace and quiet.
When one
of my trial dogs repeatedly falls below expectations, I ask myself if the
dog lacks a particular skill, if the dog and I - as a team - lack a
particular skill or do we have a "relationship" problem: for instance - am
I disappointed in the dog?, does my physical presence worry the dog?, am I
keying the dog up? is the dog listening to me when he must?
I've a
3? year old stray rescue in the house twelve hours. She's sane and calm. I
expect her to sometimes answer to her (new) name. This morning I will chain
her to a gate while I work the other dogs and see if she has any interest
in sheep. If so, there's one strategy, if not, another. If I can't find her
owner quickly, mostly I'll pack train her for mannerliness. She should be
able to come, walk on or off leash,crate, lie down and stay for a few
minutes in a couple weeks: then I'll find her a pet home.
If she
is interested in the sheep, things get more complicated because it is
unlikely starting so late she could ever be a trial dog but I might be
able to train her in six months or so as a routine farm dog. The more
skills she has, the more power she has, the more valuable she is, the
better her chances for a decent life.
In
contrast there's Luke who is a brilliant shedder. That task is splitting
off one or more sheep from the 3,4 or 5 trial sheep who, usually, are
stuck together by velcro. Creating/finding a four inch space between the
buttocks of one whirling sheep and the nose of the next, calling the dog
through that hole, indicating which sheep you want held and turning the
dog onto it -often in his own body length - is the most difficult task at
a sheepdog trial.
Not the most important but
very often the tie breaker. Handler-sheep-dog.
Since the dog is charging them, often the sheep break
behind the handler. Luke remembers which sheep I wanted and will stop and
hold that one sheep for five seconds or so - then - unless I regain
control, he'll bite her.
Normally, judges ask the dog/handler to shed the last
sheep on the head. She is the most difficult because she can see her pals
escaping. In some circumstances the shed is so difficult nobody completes
it. Not one handler has finished the International shed (a more complex
version of this) at the 2003 or 2004 National Finals.
But usually, when nobody or very few complete the shed
the judge is likely to think that that puts too much value on that one task
and he makes it easier. He may allow dog and handller to take any single
sheep or - if there are four or more sheep - he may allow a split - two
and two, two and three, etc.
The judge at the Bloomfield
trial last weekend did and that (slightly) easier shed was Luke's
downfall.
He
understands shedding as "I take one sheep" and after an excellent run to
that point, twice he did so: good single, behind me, on the head. But the
judge was asking for a split.
Training
problem is to get him to focus slightly more on my hand - with which I
indicate the sheep I want, where he should come through and -should she
break behind me - which sheep I want him to take and hold. The danger -
and probable effect - is that for a time I will lose his great ability
while he establishes a new understanding of the task.
So I
will go back to the foundation, shedding a flock of sheep against a fence
where they cannot break back behind me. All I want is slightly more focus
on my hand so I'm jiggering Luke's foundation (and our relationship)
cautiously - very cautiously.
Donald McCaig
============================================
Dear
Trainers,
I do Mr. N a disservice by
adumbrating his thorough, sensible post but his core is:
"When training for command response once the dog knows
the desired response for a given cue; the word "sit" for instance, if there
is no undesirable consequence for failure to sit on cue it becomes less
likely that the dog will sit when he hears the cue in the future."
As I've said, I believe that insistence on a single
command will help beginners reorder their desires. Further, in my
experience with our informal dog boarders, when they come back to us they
are nowhere near as mannerly as they were when they left. Their
mannerliness has been partially extinguished, not deliberately, but
by low expectations.
And I can understand how, in
obedience trials, which prize one-command/one response that "training for
command response" is the way to go.
And I am
grateful to those who have advanced this discussion.
I guess I'd have to say that
sheepdoggers don't train for command response; we train for sheep work.
In early training, if the
young sheepdog fails to take a command, he usually isn't reprimanded, often
(not always),
“The command is changed
to fit what the dog is doing.”
When an experienced
dog’s work is done properly , the dog's failure
to take
commands is inconsequential. In sheepdog work, the end
justifies the
means. This is a little different than "intelligent disobedience".
Let me give you two
examples.
If I'm at the pen and the sheep are reluctant and I
say "Go right" and the sheep break and he moves left to cover them, this is
admirable on his part and may even get a praise tone because the dog judged
the work better than I have.
If on the other hand, the sheep are very difficult, so
difficult that the dog is afraid he'll lose them by doing anything but
fetching them straight to me and I tell the dog to "go right" and he
refuses, I will correct him because I have determined that the risk is
worth taking and my judgment is, if not better, superior to the dog's.
Novice sheepdoggers often confuse these two occasions
and you'll watch some novice yelling at his dog,":Didn't I tell you to LIE
DOWN!" while the sheep are heading for the south forty.
Like the pet dogs that board
with us, a sheepdog's useful skills can deteriorate for many reasons. Some
sheepdogs declare a voluntary retirement in old age. A very few have been
put on shock collars. But invariably, skills deteriorate when the dog is
sold to a less able handler.
Sheepdogging
is a team effort and no team can better than its
weakest
link. It is common to watch a trained open dog ignoring
a novice's commands - and often
as not, the dog is right to do so.
If you put that dog with a skilled handler, suddenly -
and without corrections - the dog remembers what he's supposed to do.
J.M. Wilson once attended a Scottish trial where a dog he'd sold two years
previously was running. "Oh," the new owner said, "Can't do a thing with
him. He can't even get around the course. I've even changed his whistles,
but that did no good."
"Mind if I try?" Wilson not only took that dog around
the course, he won the it - using whistles the dog hadn't heard in two
years. I'm not sure that well taught sheepdog skills are easily
extinguished. Certainly there's no need to drill them (and drill may be
counterproductive). Yes, failure to correct for poor work can be a mistake.
But sometimes - when the
dog's been cranked down too tight -
the best
cure for poor work is asking for worse work. There are times
when repeating commands makes
no difference to the work or repeats may even be called for and times when
the dog must take the first command instantly. Fortunately, the dogs seem
to understand the difference.
Donald McCaig Yucatec
FarmWilliamsville, Virginia 24487USA
====================================================
Dear Trainers,
Since I've never trained
anything but sheepdogs, this may not be applicable to other breeds and
other work. You may wish to skip this post.
I've had my bitch June since she was a year old. I've
trained her. Though there's no doubt who's Boss, from June's point of
view, our relationship is fluid. At one extreme is our lover-like
intimacy when the work is good and my nearly inaudible whistles are
caresses.
The other extreme is June's Yahweh who casts
thunderbolts and crooks and looms very large in the universe. In between is
Old Dunderhead who insists on the wrong moves at critical moments or
doesn't see what is perfectly visible to any sane sheepdog - which June
thinks she is. She is a top gyp and thinks highly of herself.
June would work for any
handler and during my 16 year old niece Rachael's brief visits from Los
Angeles June works for her. They have won a novice/novice trial but aren't
doing terribly well in Pro/novice because in P/N, the dog can't win it for
you.
June's once terrible
outrun is still a little tight. She likes to bump and buzz sheep - probably
a residue of her early dislike of walking into a defiant sheep's face. If
she hits sheep hard and fast, she can get them moving without mastering
them. It's an unfortunate shortcut.
June is marvelously biddable and though I was able to
buy her because she "had a wee bit too much eye" (i.e. was mesmerized by
her sheep, was too clappy (went off her feet easily and stayed down))
that problem has matured/been trained out of her.
She has moderate power and
until yesterday she has never been able to do the most difficult shed (dog
on one side of five sheep, you on the other. You indicate which sheep you
want and the six inch space you want the dog to come through. But as the
dog comes through, the sheep break BEHIND YOU and the shed sheep is trying
to rejoin her pals as you're turning to see what the HELL is going on back
there. An exceptional shedding dog will head that sheep and turn it.)
Yesterday, June did it twice.
Both my trial dogs are
four years old. Just coming into their best years. I bought Luke at 2 1/2,
already trained. His whistle commands were stupid and I had to change them
and (unusually) he prefers voice to whistles.
Although Luke is a more talented dog than June - I
could have sold him to top handlers for very good money - June has been
running better in difficult trials than Luke .
What's good about Luke is his natural abilities.
He's determined and brooks no nonsense from sheep. He has exceptional
balance, reads sheep brilliantly, has a natural outrun, natural square
flanks (June's aren't square) and loves to shed (most sheepdogs dislike
forcing their way between sheep that might run over them).
Re mannerliness: When chained or
crated Luke is space protective with strangers as are his litter mates. He
can make a fairly convincing lunge to the end of his chain but has never
nipped anyone and unless chained or confined he's unaggressive. The
space protective stuff isn't severe. I can fly with him as luggage and
it is nice knowing that I can leave the car windows down while I'm
inside at some convenience store in Hazard, Kentucky. I could change this
behavior but have more important fish to fry.
Oh, I should add that Luke had his hip dislocated by a
steer last year and knows - as most dogs do not - that he can be very
badly hurt. At first, after recovery, he was much confident on sheep.
He's regained most of his former chutzpah but there's a flavor there
that wasn't present before his injury.
Luke has trouble finding his sheep (dogs don't
distinguish still objects as well as we do and they're only two feet off
the ground and even for humans it can be hard to pick out three grayish
sheep in tall yellowish broomsedge a quarter mile away. So the handler cues
the dog where the sheep are and how far away they are and, if the dog gets
lost, redirects him (points off but necessary).
I trust that experience (and trust) will cure
this. While a sheepdog must be able to think for himself, must be able
to read sheep, must be able to fetch in dark or blizzard or fog, he also
must be able to take rapid whistle commands - sometimes two or three a
second. Since every command asks a dog to do something different than he is
already doing, at first each command is both correction and reproach and
stressful. In time, of course, the commands become music and the stress
diminishes/disappears - as it has with June. Not with Luke.
Luke is extremely focused and it can be hard to get
his attention. Since Luke was working well on voice and I had to change
his original whistles, I kept him on voice longer than I should have.
Voice is slower, cruder and very much less precise than whistles. You can
wrestle a sheepdog around a trial course with voice. You cannot place
without subtlety.
Luke is a submissive small (38 pounds) male whose
attachment to me is almost neediness. He sees me as the sun moon and stars,
the God whose every gesture is meaningful and requires his
interpretation.
My mildest correction is a
thunderbolt. When he hears the thunder,
Luke often
panics. He wants so badly to do what I am asking that
he can't
decide what to do. His is what Kent Kuykendahl called:
"The panic of
failing to please."
Luke'll throw himself off
contact: (do run, run run) or think, "Since I can't do anything right, I'll
just bring the sheep. That's what my instincts are telling me. Everything
I've been taught is now Greek to me."
Although a sheepdog certainly should be mature at
four, Luke seems awfully immature to me.
I am hoping that frequent
working with soft whistles in-by alternating with periods of silent work
and occasionally egging Luke into the sheep (fun for the dog/ no fun for
the sheep) will help our working relationship mature ao Luke can realize
his full potential.
If Luke
and I can get things right, I believe we can get into the top twenty at the
National Finals. If I screw it up, Luke will be a mediocre sheepdog all his
days.
Donald
McCaig
===================================================
Dear Trainers,
Ms. M. writes: "I make it a
rule to train until the dog has
learned all
or part of what I am teaching . . ."
And Ms.
D. adds: "This is pretty much what I do, too.
I want the
dog to leave the session with a coherent message
and I'm more interested in that
than in precision . . ."
I suspect this is where
companion dog and sheepdog training differ and hope
(a) I can articulate the
difference and (b) that you will correct my misapprehensions of what you
do.
It seems to me that the foundation of companion dog
training is a number of fairly simple skills which are elaborated in
different venues. Thus the "fetch" might vary in competition obedience,
hunt tests and assistance dog work, but the basic skill is unchanged.
Most owners don't want and/or need more than these
basic skills plus personal variants ("Get off the sofa", "Get in the
car") and these skills can be taught in fairly short order with a
variety of methods: shock collar, treats, traditional obedience training
or some combination.
These skills - and the dog's understanding that WORK
is to be done, his acceptance of that work as his own and eventually his
pride in doing it forms the foundation of a more complex and less well
defined role - what I'll call - for lack of a better term - the Trainer's
Dog.
Whereas the companion dog can be trained in weeks,
the Trainer's Dog takes months and even years and at some point much of
the training conversation passes to the dog.
I am reasonably certain that
neither M. with Rover nor T. with Dawg
"taught"
their helpers everything they know how to do. Building on
the simple
foundation, these dogs have learned and in some ways
coinvented
their life's work. I admire these dogs and see in them
what I want in my sheepdogs:
These dog’s UNDERSTAND.
Sheepdoggers don't teach building
blocks. Although there is a normal progression to training,
(gathering to driving, inbye to far away) any time there's a chance to jump
the queue, the sensible trainer does so. It the dog finds himself driving
before he can fetch, take advantage of it, if a young dog makes an
opportunistic shed or five hundred yard gather, make much of it.
We want the dog to grow to understand his work
and finally to coinvent it.
Consequently, there are many, many training days when
a young dog makes no progress at all, doesn't seem to "get it", will
not understand that it must keep off its sheep or learn to drive them
away when previously it was fetching. Indeed, when the dog's under two
years of age there are very few training days with much sense of progress
and insisting on progress would, in many cases, overface the young dog just
when you least want to do so.
Most days when I leave the training field the dog
knows I'm satisfied with what we've accomplished that day - even though we
may not have made progress and may indeed have responded to the dog's
bad hair day by asking easier work or retreating to simple, commandless
balance work or if the dog is really stressed, encouraging him to dive in
and break up the sheep and bite like a silly puppy.
The other day I was loading sheep with D.; one of the
best young handlers. D. had his three year old McCloud. "He's the best dog
I've ever had," D. said. "I really like him. He's a little too eager to
bite but he'll grow out of that." I should note that any bite at a
sheepdog trial results in an instant DQ.
Now there are ways D.could
stop this behavior: NOW. But to do so would alter all the rest of McCloud's
work and McCloud's understanding of his work. McCloud will move sheep, no
matter what - and his total commitment is the core of what is best about
the dog.
So D.
will admonish McCloud, change McCloud's focus when David sees a bite coming
and wait for McCloud to mature into understanding that yes, there are times
he should bite a sheep but no, there are other times he shouldn't.
Patience, patience, patience.
Donald McCaig Yucatec Farm
Williamsville, Virginia 24487 USA
=====================================================================
Dear Trainers,
Although I think their
work is generally harder than sheepdog training, in one respect
pet/companion dog trainers have it easier. For nearly sixty years the basic
tasks have had the same names and those names don't sound remotely like one
another. "Sit" cannot be confused with "heel", nor "stay" with "fetch".
Since sheepdoggers may define their dog's tasks
indeosyncratically - I've seen dogs that wouldn't run out to the left and
others that would NOT lie down - and sheepdoggers ask the dog however they
wish to, similarities - sometimes devastating similarities occur.
If you use "Back" for get off your sheep and buy a dog
named "Mack" you must change one or the other. Similarly with "Way to Me"
and "Ray."
Your mannerliness commands cannot blur into your
stockwork commands. "If you say" "Come here" or "Common" to your dog -
instead of the customary: "That'll do, here" you risk confusing with "Come
bye" (go clockwise) and the shed command "In here."
If you buy a Midge and already own a Midge, one must
become Maid. Some british dogs are trained for brace work and their
voice commands are reversed. Any new dog's whistles is likely to be
different than the ones you generally use and may be their complete
opposite and you must decide whether to change the dog's commands or adapt
to them.
Each sheepdog learns a voice and whistle command for
the same movement. And both voice and whistle must be adjustable and good
command syntax.
The first syllable/ first whistle tone should announce
the main feature of the command. Thus "Away"/"Twee" tells the dog he's to
go counterclockwise. If you say no more the dog knows he's to go
slightly clockwise.
If you put urgency into the command, or repeat the
first syllable "Waywayway"/"tweetweetwee" the dog knows to move fast.
The second syllable can be drawn out " . .to meeee"/"oooooo" to set the dog
off wider (there are specific commands for "wider" too but these are
generally used only near at hand). If a dog is given the wide command and
cuts his corners he will be corrected.
Commands may be combined in
a string - usually in a whistle so a single command might be "Go clockwise
quickquickDOWN).
These commands are
peculiar to each handler and dog. If I buy a dog from someone whose lie
down is "LA DINN!" my "LIE!" is a new command to the dog and we have some
adjusting to do. And though every dog comes with a tape of its whistles, no
two whistles are exactly the same and again, there's adjusting to do.
On a sheepdog list this week
a novice had bought a metal whistle
and was going
to a trial this weekend. Experienced trailers told
him to stick
with his old whistle until he'd been working his dog
on the new
one for at least three weeks. The sound a metal whistle
makes is not
the sound a plastic whistle makes - even with the
same handler using the same
whistles.
The most difficult task at most trials is the shed
where handler and dog attempt to shed off one sheep from its mates. The
sheep bunch together for protection (aka "teflon sheep) and close up the
smallest gap as soon as it develops.
If you walk the dog up on the sheep they'll break
behind the handler who has to regroup and start again - while the clock is
ticking away.
Alastair MacRae has won the National Finals more
times than anyone. He sets his Star gyp up on the far side of teflon sheep
and uses the command "WayCome"- that fast. Star no more than gets started
on "Away to me" before she's told "Come by" and consequently she merely
turns her head from "Way" to "Come". This peculiar movement startles the
sheep slightly but doesn't really threaten them and with their attention on
the dog, they may drift far enough to give Alastair and Star the six inch
gap they need for Star to come through and shed off the last sheep.
I'm starting to train Luke
and June to this new command. On eastern sheep, especially on Dorpers, it
may be useful.
Donald McCaig Yucatec Farm
Williamsville, Virginia 24487 USA
========================================================================
Dear Trainers,
I can't quite picture the precision required in Mr. N.
first paragraphs but the tasks certainly sound difficult and precise.
It's hard to compare with the precision of a top trial sheepdog because
sheepdogs are usually moving and (with exceptions) where the dog is doesn't
concern the handler or the judge. The sheep draw the
lines.
Different dogs work nearer or farther off the sheep,
so a powerful dog might need to be thirty-thirty five feet off light sheep
a sheep kindly dog would be working five to seven feet away. I will say
that when I ask for a full stop at 500 yards, I want a full stop within
one to three body lengths depending on how fast the dog is running.
I am generally unhappy with competitions that award
points for "style" or "attitude": there are dour workers, easy-going
workers and frantic workers. Practically, what counts at a sheep
gather or a duck hunt is THAT the dog gets the job done, not what's on his
mind as he's doing it.
Although I hate to see a sheepdog lope or trot on his
outrun and believe he is a less good dog than one who goes out in a
more businesslike fashion, I won't deduct for it when judging. Usually
such a dog will run afoul somewhere later and if not, I won't fault him. As
Tommy Wilson once said, "You canna like it, but you canna point it
either!"
Finally, and - to me - most
interesting point, Mr. N. raises:
(I quote his conclusion
again):" I don't think the fine control required in retriever competition
is possible without stopping the dog to direct. "
Every stop, particularly a stop that requires
the dog to look back at the handler, breaks the dog's focus.
Every stop is an implied
reproach: "No! You're not doing it right!"
(In sheepdog
work, too many downs suck confidence out of a dog.
On the other hand, we may need
those stops for control - it's a delicate balance.
The flying redirect when the sheepdog is going away is
difficult enough so that those with novice dogs are advised to down the
dog, then redirect and even when an open dog is confused, the down/redirect
is best.
But the down/look back at the handler and redirect is
not recommended. Any redirect on the outrun is penalized usually, one
point for the necessity, one for the redirect. A stop, redirect would
usually cost three points. A stop, look back at the handler and redirect
would cost four to five points because the dog had no contact with his
sheep. On the drive away, redirects aren't penalized but a stop, look back
and redirect would cost a point or two for out of contact.
Sometimes, when the dog is taking an inside flank
(between you and the sheep) it behooves the handler to break concentration
and recall him a bit on the fly but if the handler cries "That'l do here"
most judges will deduct points for out of contact (The judge won't
deduct for a whistled recall because it may mean anything.)
I've watched the Canadian
retriever demonstrations on two subsequent years. It looked to my
uneducated eyes like the dogs resented the stop, turn and redirect. Several
seemed quite sulky about having their focus broken.
I hope Mr. N. will get down to
my trial April 16th. There's a nice river behind the trial field where he
can exercise his dogs. One day I hope to see a top retriever trial or
perhaps he can suggest a video.
The difficulty with
campaigning dogs is when I do get a weekend off I like to work my dogs and
don't see as many other dog sports as I'd like to. Parallel universes.
Donald McCaig Yucatec Farm
Williamsville, Virginia 24487 USA
==============================================================
THE REWARD FOR THE DOG WHEN SHEEPDOGGING
Dear Trainers,
The sheepdog has an inchoate
genetic need to do something about sheep which it expresses when it "sees"
sheep and starts holding them to the shepherd/trainer.
Over time the dog learns to express its genetic
need in "work" those skills, reactions and responses which help the
herd to do his work: dipping, shearing, lambing, weaning etc. The dog
will do this work so long as it is physically able: usually until
death.
In the beginning, the dog understands commands as
corrections: if I say "down" the dog is doing something wrong and must go
to plan B.
If I say nothing when it
gets to its feet again (I hope without a command)
it will
resume its work - whatever that work was at the time: driving,
fetching, penning, etc.
Sheepdoggers call that reward "letting the dog have its sheep".
When a dog is fully trained,
although every command still bears the
hint of a
reprimand, that hint is absorbed in the dog's desire to co-create
efficient, elegant and
beautiful work.
Sheepdogs become artists and
it will take a better thinker than I am to uncover the 'click and treat'
rewards in artistry.
Donald McCaig
=========================================================================
PRAISE AND SHEEPDOGGING
Dear Trainers,
Ms. G.writes: "When using
the KMODT, praise usually comes through more sincerely, rather than the
monotone, "good, dog, good dog, good dog. Hyper dogs and shy dogs may
receive praise that is different from each other, but they DO get
praise."
I used to think praise had no place in sheepdog work.
You never see it at an open trial except after the run when the tradition
is to give your dog a pat and if the run has been very good, perhaps dog
and handler have a modest Calvinist celebration.
Praise of the "Good dog" sort breaks the
sheepdog's concentration and changes his focus from his work to you.
I like to tell about Jim Wilson, a scottish shepherd
whose work on the hill meant that every day Jim spent more time with his
gyp Peg than with his wife. Peg ran well at the trials, twice a finalist
at the International, the biggest toughest sheepdog trial in the UK.
Jim is a gentle man but other handlers noticed that
Jim never gave Peg a pat after a run and they started ragging him in the
beer tent, "Ah, Jim. Peg's such a grand bitch, why do you never tell her
so." To which Jim WIlson replied, "Why do you think Peg doesna ken what
I think of her?"
Praise as information is sometimes used when teaching
a young dog: "Good dog, now you've got it right," but even this kind of
praise is a distraction from the work and the training.
Since sheepdoggers don't believe in the "one command
equals one obedient response"paradigm (followed often by much "good dog"
blether), we talk constantly to our dogs, early on with body language and
voice, later with whistle.
I am presently changing four year old Luke's right
flank whistle and reinforce his new command with voice and posture to make
it as easy for him as I can.
I don't say, "Good dog."
But I do say, "Away to me," in a soft, pleasant
inviting voice and give the new whistle and if Luke reponds properly I'll
say "Away to Me" with a happy chuckle in my voice. If he doesn't take the
new whistle, my voice becomes more insistent, until he takes the new
whistle, upon which voice and whistle become more gentle again.
That is the praise the
sheepdog needs. After all - Luke already kens what I think of him.
Donald
MCCAIG
==========================================================================
Dear Trainers,
This was a straight impersonal correction - very
unlike what I'm used to in sheepdog training where every correction is
personal. (Since the dog and I are working in a common enterprise, he lets
me know when I'm making mistakes (the dog "corrects" me if you will) and I
let him know when he is getting it wrong.
The sheep correct us both. If the dog fails to run
wide enough to gather them all, he'll have to go back a second time. By the
end of a long day gathering, the dog will have learned to run wide enough.
If he misreads a ewe with newborn lamb and crowds her into the fight range,
he might get a cracked rib and the brawl will disrupt their proper
relationship.
If I alarm sheep during some
delicate piece of sheepwork, they'll bolt or jam together or panic. There
is nothing quite as irritating as getting a new mother in the gateway of
the barn, spooking her with an impatient move and while Mama is booking
back to the main flock half a mile away you're standing there with two
newborn lambs. That's a correction, son.
The only
reward we give sheepdogs is allowing them to do their work and this isn't,
I think, what operant conditioners usually mean by a reward. If sheepdogs
weren't desperate to do the work and to learn how to do the work more
elegantly, the methods we sheepdog trainers use would fail. That's why we
can't train non-sheepdogs to be sheepdogs.
Jack
Knox, the dean of North American sheepdog trainers described sheepdog
training in a nutshell: "Allow the right; correct the wrong." Donald McCaig
============================================================
Dear Trainers,
In an interesting post about moral training, Ms. N.
asks: "Faced with a failing dog and the imperative to improve oneself,
the sheepdog person's evasion is to sell the dog?"
Sheepdog culture does not view sheepdogs as
"fur-people", nor as pets nor as "kids" nor as "Dogs one belongs to." They
are seen as a special sort of livestock. Think horses.
This view has many consequences, some good some bad.
They are less valuable as puppies than as grown dogs, both as work partners
and in cold cash. The most desirable pups might bring $6-700. After
Sturgis, one nursery dog (2 years old) sold for $10,000 and while this
figure brought gasps from sheepdoggers, a middle aged open dog should fetch
$5000 and a well regarded dog up to $15,000.
Sheepdogs need work or they deteriorate mentally and
working them takes time. For those of us who aren't western ranchers (Some
of whom have so much work their dogs are rotated every other day) or
professional trainers probably can't work more than three or four sheepdogs
- top. (My limit is probably two). It is better to sell the unworked dogs
than keep them languishing in a kennel.
Most sheepdogs adapt easily to a change in owners.
Most trial dogs will have had three or four and I've known dogs who've had
twelve. If a sheepdog has been ill-trained, his price drops but there's
money to be made rehabilitating that dog and selling it to a farmer or as a
goose dog and there are trainers doing just that.
If you have a sheepdog that for one reason or another
you aren't getting along with, are you doing the dog a favor keeping it?
Do you think the dog doesn't know you're not getting
on?
What about that ten year old
dog - a little too slow to catch the sheep
on a big open
course but the best training tool in the world to teach a
novice
handler on smaller easier courses.
Should that dog spend the rest
of his life in your kennel?
I know people who love to
train young dogs but are entirely indifferent to competition.
Why shouldn't
they train them up, sell them and start a new class?
Because
they are valuable I have never heard of a trained sheepdog ending up in the
pound. Doubtless there have been some but they are extremely rare.
I have kept dogs I should
have sold and I can't think my sentimentality did them any favors.
Donald McCaig
===========================================================================
Dear Trainers,
Sheepdog trainers start by walking the pup towards
some sheep and turning the dog loose. Most will start the pup in a small
ring (100 foot diameter) in the interest of some control but other trainers
go into the field with the pup (as I did at the Hutto demo)
The dog starts working
without any commands except its name. From
there we
refine its work. The dog's initial primary focus must be on the
sheep, not
the trainer and the trainer uses the sheep as a kind of
bait/desired
object until finally the dog understands that the work goes
better, makes more sense, if he
listens to what the trainer/handler is saying.
We try to give the young dog as much routine work as
he can do - and most sheepdogs can do chore work before they're a year old.
That's what we're hoping for Nell. Real work relaxes the dog and teaches
him - more quickly than training can - what works and what doesn't with
sheep.
We don't start with any command strictly enforced.
We'll be teaching basic commands all at once until gradually the dog starts
to understand their meanings.
There is a general sequence: first keeping the dog off
the sheep to the zone where he can think, then short outrun and fetch, then
flanks (go left and right) then a drive away and finally a shed - but if
we're presented with a training opportunity - say a space opens up in the
sheep inviting an easy shed - we'll take it and hope the pup integrates
that experience later; if a dog is driving before he has his flanks
we'll encourage that too.
I've seen Ralph Pulfer work a very young dog around a
small trial course with no verbal commands except an "AH" and the dog's
name.
I knew a woman who had put several OTCH's on her dogs
before she got fascinated with stockwork. She actually kept four sheep on
the back patio of her suburban home to practice. But she never quite GOT
IT.
One day we were walking our
dogs in Ethel Conrad's back pasture and spotted a group of sheep on a
nearby hill. I suggested she turn her dog loose and see what he'd do.
"But what if . . ."
"Gail, exactly what harm do you think your dog can do?"
We aren't particularly brilliant trainers - certainly
I'm not - but we have dogs that yearn to do this work and are hardwired
with the skills to do it.
"It's all there in their little brain box.
It's our job to get it out."
Donald McCaig
====================================================== Dear Trainers,
Ms. W also asked: "What is it in Nell's previous work
or her general life-background that will give her the information she needs
on how to visually recognize that 90 white objects at 200 yards are the
same thing as she knows how to circle up close? Or will she be learning
this for the first time, too? Is this fundamental perception issue ever a
problem for sheepdog training?"
Although 90 sheep at 200 yards is a piece of cake,
many young dogs have difficulty "seeing sheep" at a distance. Sheep are
more gray than white and unless they're moving, they can blend in with
landscape.Plus, we see more from six feet in the air than the dog does from
twenty inches. Not seeing sheep was Luke's greatest fault and working on
that was why I wasn't improving his down. Luke's problem was exaggerated by
too much bonding with me - unlike June, he adores me. Which means that when
we walk onto the field, he's searching my face for instructions instead
of searching the field for sheep. Probably would have made a hellova
whiplash obedience dog.
I haven't really taught Luke to "identify" distant
sheep, so much as I've taught him that when I say "see sheep" he's to look
for them as I walk straight toward them for ten steps or so with Luke on
the side I intend to send him. He's learned to trust that there will be
sheep out there somewhere. (Of course I would never,never,never send him
unless I was sure there were sheep for him to find.)
Luke's no better at spotting sheep than he was a year
ago but usually that improves with experience.
At this year's Leatherstocking Trial for some weird
reason in the afternoon, almost all the young dogs would run about half way
up the hill then veer sharply right as if they had spotted the sheep -
which were in fact another hundred yards further up. Did they think the
white crossdrive panels were sheep, did the scent of sheep drift down the
slope to that spot?
Was it echoes off the woods beside the course? Nobody
knew. Only the most experienced dogs keep right on booking up the hill
until they found their sheep. Why wasn't it a problem in the morning?
Dunno.
June needed a redirect (whistled command for which
points are deducted) at that danger point but although Luke hesitated he
sailed right on up the hill.
Donald McCaig Yucatec
Farm Williamsville, Virginia
==================================================================
Subject: Dogs and Boots
Dear Trainers, Margot wrote: "In theory, the
owner/handler is not supposed to do anything unless the judge says for
them to, so most people remain frozen in place hoping/praying/believing
that the judge and stewards will take care of the problem. It just ain't
necessarily so."
Not wearing our boots are we? Usually a shout and/or
swift kick discourages the offender BEFORE THINGS GET SERIOUS. I cannot
imagine any circumstance on or off the course where I would wait for any
judge, clinician, trial host, steward, instructor, Godlike Authority Figure
to stop a dog pestering my dog. That's why we have brains (and boots). It's
my dog. It's my dog Period.
I've seen sheep dive into the St. Lawrence pursued by
swimming sheepdogs (and an anxious handler in a rowboat), I've seen lone
sheep stranded high on a cliff, I've seen dogs put sheep through the
judge's tent and into five thousand spectators, I have seen sheep collapse
and die on the course. I've seen sheepdogs collapse from heatstroke moments
after they came off the course but in 22 years of sheepdog trials I have
seen bitch snaps and raised ruffs but I have yet to see a dog fight off the
course, let alone on.
At the Rural Hill trial this fall a spectator's
Australian Shepherd broke his flexilead and dashed onto the course after
the outrunning sheepdog. First time I ever saw an Australian Shepherd make
a decent outrun. The set out crew was radioed, the Aussie was pounced upon.
It and owner were ejected from the trial and the outrunning sheepdog was
given a rerun.
Everybody (except the Aussie's owner) got a kick out
of it.
Donald McCaig
==================================================================
Example: My pup was zooming
through agility, conquering each obstacle > with joy and verve, happily
hitting the contacts, grinning all over > as she performed complicated
jump courses, working ahead of me and > loving it. Then she met the
teeter. The first couple of times were > no problem and she gamboled
over, pausing for praise on the down > contact then blazing on, then
something snapped on the inside of her > head and she decided this was
just too scary. She trembled, she > jammed on the brakes, she refused
all sorts of delicious bribes a few > inches in front of the forepaws
apparently glued in place."
This fall at a big sheepdog trial I took June to the
agility demo to try it out.They asked me to put her on a lead for the first
jump and I did. They asked which sort of treats she preferred. I said,
"Treats?" After the first jump I unhooked the leash: it wasn't necessary.
June continued through the course (including the teeter-totter) not
because it was fun or exciting or rewarding but because I asked her to.
Her reward is her life of sheepwork and walks and
exploring and being a dog. Once a day (twice since she's due to whelp in a
few days) she's fed. She's fed if she's good or bad, obedient or not. She's
fed because she's a dog. All the dogs get bones when I'm butchering or
for Thanksgiving or Christmas. The treats are disconnected from
anything they have done. They do soldify my role as benificient pack leader
(as do the adventure walks, the going to strange places and bringing
them home safely etc.)
My dogs are mannerly because their life makes
dog-sense. June went onto the teeter-totter because her leader asked her
to. Why wouldn't she? Donald McCaig Dear Trainers, Ms. L.
wrote: > > Some dogs are just plain afraid of the teeter totter.
They are > afraid of the movement under their feet. They are afraid of
the > sound that the teeter makes when it crashes to the ground.
Sure. June didn't like it either. June also doesn't
like to cross the grates under which the Hudson River rushes in Manhattens
West Side Park. She doesn't like the noise in airplane cargo holds. She
doesn't like gunshots during hunting season. There's lots of things
June doesn't like. That doesn't mean she won't put up with them if I
ask her to. Donald McCaig
=============================================================
Dear Trainers, I am grateful to H. for her thoughtful reply to my
inquiry about the malapropism "showing in obedience". She wrote (in
part):
" Dog shows come directly from this social space. This
may have been clearer in the era of the "benched" show. The human
participants are displaying their stuff. The canines present are not
participants, they are objects presented for display and evaluation of the
readily observable parts. Hence the name."
Some may think I persist in
these inquiries because I can't resist any chance to take a jab at the dog
fancy. Not true. If I wanted giggles the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show
would giggle me for a lifetime. I believe that because the dog is so
wonderfully malleable, he has allowed very different cultures to see him in
different ways.
Our dogs try to become
our beliefs.
Clicker trainers, dog show
handlers, Keohler Trainers, shock collar trainers,
sheepdoggers,
cattledoggers and shutzchund trainers have different beliefs
about dogs
and none of these beliefs is "right" because the dog can adapt
to any of
them.
These beliefs are revealed
in language: "e-collar", "drives", "the sport of dogs",
"humaniac","behaviors" are all bad language and each reveals its underlying
belief system. That's what interests me.
Let me give you an example from my own culture. In
Scotland the highest possible praise for a sheepdog is "Aye, yin's a useful
beast." The first time I heard it I thought: "That's awfully dour". The
expression reveals a culture that sees dogs as livestock: sheep, cattle,
goats, pigs and dogs are "beasts". Secondly it sees dogs as utilitarian:
"useful" tools. The phrase has unsentimental overtones. Clearly, if a
"beast" becomes "useless" one would discard it.
People who come out of other cultures value their dogs
as much as I do. But I'll bet they value them differently.
Recently, no doubt unwittingly, Ms. H. cued me about
another dog fancy malapropism: "Temperment". I'll ask about that in the New
Year. Meanwhile, I hope you and yours are healthy and that you enjoy a
doggy, sometimes funny New Year.
Donald McCaig
Copyright Donald McCaig 2005 to
infinity.
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